![]() Be prepared for the fact it is inevitable some fluid or a lot can spill out on the cement so take precautions with either a plastic sheet or newspaper. I let a bit drain out initially and continued to loosen all remaining bolts and with my hands slowly lowered the pan and tipped the remaining fluid in the drain pain. Use the open ended spanner as appropriate (It will be enough as the nuts should not be on extremely tight) Once you have removed most bolts the pan will tip (watch out and have your drain pan ready). There are one or two nuts that lie in direct placement of the transmission lines. Try to loosen most but leave a few loose and in the thread. You can use a deep socket and extension of 3/8 size to loosen the nuts. There are 16 pan bolts that hold the pan to the gearbox which are all 13mm. ![]() Once you have jacked the car up you can then start underneath. You may have to jack up one side to a certain height, then switch over the other side and come back to get the final desired height for underneath clearance. Get the jack and at the chassis points start jacking the vehicle up, one side at a time. Get the car on a level surface where possible. Don't know what trade price is but its about $80 retail! Still its worth it as you probably will service the trans once every 4 or 5 years if doing approx 10,000 kms per year. You can probably get away with using ramps as well. You will need to get the car reasonably high so a garage jack is the only way. ![]() This isn’t a small jack to say change your tyres. Not to big but enough so you can tap a ½ extension on the socket end. This is to tap the filter seal into place
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